On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 376
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in land animals it is progressively reinforced
withage.Meatcollagenistoughandmustbe
cooked for some time near the boil to be
dissolved into gelatin, but in most fish it
dissolves at 120 or 130ºF/50–55ºC, at which
point the muscle layers separate into distinct
flakes.
Succulence from Gelatin and Fat Both
gelatinandfatcancontributeanimpressionof
moistness to fish texture. Fish with little
collagen — trout, bass — seem drier when
cooked than those with more — halibut,
shark. Because the motion for steady
swimmingcomesmostlyfromthebackendof
the fish, the tail region contains more
connective tissue than the head end, and
seems more succulent. Red muscle fibers are
thinner than white fibers and require more
connectivetissuetojointhemwitheachother,
so dark meat has a noticeably finer, more
gelatinoustexture.
Thefatcontentoffishmusclerunsa
tremendousrange,from0.5%incodandother
whitefishto20%inwell-fedherringandtheir
relatives(p.184).Fatstoragecellsarefound
primarilyinadistinctlayerundertheskin,
andtheninthevisiblesheetsofconnective
tissuethatseparatethemyotomes.Withina
givenfish,thebellyregionisusuallythe
fattiest,whilemusclesegmentsget
progressivelyleanertowardthebackandtail.
Acenter-cutsalmonsteakmayhavetwicethe
fatcontentofaslicefromthetail.
Fish anatomy. Unlike the muscles of land
animals(p.120),fishmusclesarearrangedin
layers of short fibers, and organized and
separated by sheets of connective tissue that
