On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 375
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crustaceans, the hepatopancreas (p. 219). The
“tongues” of cod and carp are actually throat
musclesandassociatedconnectivetissuethat
softens with long cooking. Fish heads can be
20% fatty material and are stuffed and slowcookeduntilthebonessoften.Andthenthere
are “sounds,” or swim bladders, balloons of
connective tissue that such fish as cod, carp,
catfish, and sturgeon fill with air to adjust
theirbuoyancy.InAsia,fishsoundsaredried,
frieduntiltheypuffup,andslowlycookedin
asavorysauce.
FishMuscleanditsDelicateTexture
Fishhaveamoredelicatetexturethanthe
fleshofourlandanimals.Thereasonsforthis
arethelayeredstructureoffishmuscle,and
thesparsenessandweaknessoffish
connectivetissue.
MuscleStructureInlandanimals,individual
muscles and muscle fibers can be quite long,
on the order of several inches, and the
muscles taper down at the ends into a tough
tendonthatconnectsthemtobone.Infish,by
contrast, muscle fibers are arranged in sheets
afractionofaninchthick(“myotomes”),and
each short fiber merges into very thin layers
of connective tissue (“myosepta”), which are
aloosemeshofcollagenfibersthatrunfrom
the backbone to the skin. The muscle sheets
are folded and nested in complex W-like
shapes that apparently orient the fibers for
greatest efficiency of force transmission to
the backbone. There are about 50 muscle
sheetsor“flakes”alongthelengthofacod.
Connective Tissue Fish connective tissue is
weak because its collagen contains less
structure-reinforcing amino acids than beef
collagen does, and because the muscle tissue
also serves as an energy store that’s
repeatedlybuiltupandbrokendown,whereas
