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restaurantandhomecookswhodoservetimeconsumingmeatstocksandreductionsseldom
make them from scratch; these products are
well suited to manufacture on an industrial
scale, and good versions are available in
frozenform.Therichcreamandbuttersauces
popularized by thenouvelle cuisine have
becomelesscommon;simplerbroths,reduced
pan deglazings, and vinaigrettes more so.
Thanks to the international scope of modern
cooking, restaurant diners encounter a wider
range of sauces than ever before. Many of
themarecontrastingpureesmadefromfruits,
vegetables, nuts, and spices, or else thinner
soy-and fish-based Asian dipping sauces;
these are attractive to restaurateurs because
they require less time, labor, and often less
skillthantheclassicFrenchsauces.Similarly,
homecooksarenowlikelytobuytime-saving
and versatile bottled sauces and dressings.
And a few inventive chefs are experimenting
with unusual tools and materials — among
them
liquid
nitrogen,
high-powered
pulverizers,thickenersderivedfromseaweeds
and microbes to make new forms of
suspensions,emulsions,foams,andjellies.
ThesubtlenessanddelicacydescribedbyI