On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1117
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cooking.”InthehandsofCarêmeand
Escoffier,thatnouvellecuisinewas
augmentedwithafewnewsaucesandbecame
classicFrenchcooking,thestandard
throughoutthewesternworldforfinedining.
Intime,theclassicsystembecame
increasinglyrigidandpredictable,withmost
chefsessentiallypreparingthesamestandard
dishesfromthesameprecookedsaucebases.
The20thcenturybroughtanewnouvelle
cuisine,alongwiththeNewNovelandthe
NewWaveincinema.Inthe1960sanumber
ofwellestablishedFrenchchefs,including
PaulBocuse,MichelGuérard,theTroisgros
family,andAlainChapel,ledthewayin
rethinkingtheFrenchtradition.Theyasserted
thechef’screativeroleandthevirtuesof
simplicity,economy,andfreshness.Foods
werenolongertobedistilledintotheir
essences,butweretobepresentedintact,as
themselves.
In1976,thejournalistsHenriGaultand
ChristianMillaupublishedtheTen
Commandmentsofnouvellecuisine,ofwhich
theseventhwas:“Youshalleliminatebrown
andwhitesauces.”Thenewcooksstill
thoughtthat,inthewordsofMichelGuérard,
“thegreatsaucesofFrancemustbedescribed
asthecornerstonesofcuisine,”buttheyused
themmoreselectivelyandwithrestraint.
Lighter-flavoredveal,chicken,andfishstocks
servedaspoachingandbraisingliquids;
reductionsofthesewereusedtogivedepthto
last-minutepansauces;andsaucesingeneral
werethickenedlesswithflourandstarch,
moreoftenwithcream,butter,yogurtand
freshcheese,vegetablepurees,andwith
bubblyfoams.
Post-Nouvelle: Diverse and Innovative
SaucesAttheopeningofthe21stcentury,the
classic brown and white sauces have become
scarce,somuchsothatperhapswe’rereadyto
appreciate their virtues again. Those
