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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 372

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mackerelandherringremainingood
conditiononiceforonlyfivedays,codand
salmonforeight,troutfor15,carpandtilapia
(afreshwaterAfricannative)for20days.
TheSensitivityandFragility
ofFishinthePan

Mostfishposeadoublechallengeinthe
kitchen.Theyaremoreeasilyovercookedtoa
dryfibrousnessthanordinarymeats.Andeven
whenthey’reperfectlydone,theirfleshis
veryfragileandtendstofallapartwhen
movedfrompanorgrilltoplate.The
sensitivityoffishtoheatisrelatedtotheir
perishability:musclefibersthatare
specializedtoworkwellinthecoldnotonly
spoilatlowertemperatures,theybecome
cookedatlowertemperatures.Themuscle
proteinsofoceanfishbegintounfoldand
coagulateatroomtemperature!
Thoughovercookedfishgetsdry,itnever


getstough.Thefragilityofcookedfishresults
fromitsrelativelysmallamountsconnectivetissuecollagen,andfromthelowtemperature
atwhichthatcollagenisdissolvedinto
gelatin.
TheUnpredictability
ofFishQuality

Thequalityofmanyfishandshellfishcan


varydrasticallyfromseasontoseason.Thisis
becausetheyliveoutlifecyclesthattypically
includeonephaseduringwhichtheygrowand
mature,accumulatingenergyreservesand
reachingtheirpeakofculinaryquality,anda
subsequentphaseduringwhichtheyexpend
thosereservestomigrateandcreatemassesof
eggsorspermforthenextgeneration.And
mostfishdon’tstoretheirreservesinlayers
offat,aslandanimalsdo.Insteadtheyusethe
proteinsoftheirmusclemassastheirenergy
pack.Duringmigrationsandspawning,they



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