On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 567
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Peru have been freeze-drying potatoes in the
Andes for millennia. To makechuño, which
can be stored indefinitely, they trample
potatoes to break down their structure and
expose them constantly to the dry, cold
mountainair,sothattheyfreezeatnightand
losesomemoisturebysublimation,thenthaw
during the day and lose more water by
evaporation.Chuño develops a strong flavor
from the disruption of the potato tissues and
long exposure to the air and sun, and is
reconstitutedinwatertomakestews.
Inmodernindustrialfreeze-drying,foods
arequicklychilledtoaslowas–70ºF/–57ºC,
thenslightlywarmedandsubjectedtoa
vacuum,whichpullstheirwatermolecules
outanddriesthem.Becausethefoodsaren’t
heatedorexposedtooxygen,theirflavorand
colorremainrelativelyfresh.Manyfruitsand
vegetablesarefreeze-driedtodayandusedas
isforsnackfoods,orreconstitutedwithwater
ininstantsoupmixes,emergencyrations,and
campingfoods.
FermentationandPickling:
SauerkrautandKimchi,
CucumberPickles,Olives
Fermentationisoneoftheoldestandsimplest
meansofpreservingfoods.Itrequiresno
particularkindofclimate,nocooking,andso
noexpenditureoffuel:justacontainer,which
canbeamereholeintheground,andperhaps
somesaltorseawater.Olivesandsauerkraut
—fermentedcabbage—arefamiliar
examplesoffermentedfruitsandvegetables.
Anoverlappingcategoryisthepickle,afood
preservedbyimmersioninbrineorastrong
acidsuchasvinegar.Brinesoftenencourage
fermentation,andfermentationgenerates
preservativeacids,sotheterm“pickle”is
appliedtobothfermentedandunfermented
preparationsofcucumbersandotherfoods.
Lessfamiliarbutintriguingrelativesof
