On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1116
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givesseveralFrenchsaucerecipesthatrequire
more meat than the meal they will
accompany,andthenremarkson“theFollyof
these fine French Cooks” in running up such
hugeexpensesforsolittle.Glasse’sprincipal
sauce is “gravy,” made by browning some
meat, carrots, onions, several herbs and
spices, shaking in some flour, adding water,
and stewing. In the 19th century, similarly
homely anchovy, oyster, parsley, egg, caper,
andbuttersauceswerepopular.
AndtheWorcestershiresaucesand
chutneysandketchupsthatDentidiPirajno
mocked?Thesecondimentshadbecomeapart
ofEnglishcookinginthe17thcenturythanks
tothecommercialactivitiesoftheEastIndia
Company,whichbroughtbackAsiansoyand
fishsauces—includingIndonesiankecap(p.
499)—andpickledfruitsandvegetables,all
preservedfoodswithintensifiedflavors.
Manyofthesepreparationsarerichinsavory
aminoacids,andtheEnglishimitationswere
oftenmadewithsimilarlysavorymushrooms
andanchovies.Ourfamiliartomatoketchupis
asweetenedversionofsalty,vinegary,spicy
tomatopreserves.SoanEnglishcontemporary
ofCarờmes,WilliamKitchiner,includesa
recipeforbộchamelinhisrecipebook,but
alsopresentsWowWowSauce,which
containsparsley,pickledcucumbersor
walnuts,butter,flour,broth,vinegar,catsup,
andmustard.Thesestronglyflavored
concoctionswerequickandeasytouse,and
wereevidentlyenjoyedfortheirstrong
contrasttotheflavorofthefoodsthey
accompanied,notforsubtleenhancement.
ModernSauces:Nouvelle
andPost-Nouvelle
The20thCentury:NouvelleCuisineBackin
the18thcentury,FranỗoisMarinandhis
colleaguesdescribedtheirbouillon-based
cookingasnouvellecuisine,orthenew
