On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 320
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PoachisamedievalwordfromtheFrench
forthe“pouch”ofgentlycookedeggwhite
that forms around the yolk. The original
16th-century form ofsimmer wassimper,
an affected, conceited facial expression,
the connection possibly being the coy
blinking of the bubbles as they begin to
break at the surface.Braise andstew are
both 18th-century borrowings from the
French, the first coming from a word for
“coal,” and referring to the practice of
putting coals under and atop the cooking
pot, the second frométuve, meaning stove
orheatedroomandsoahotenclosure.
ToughandLargeCuts:SlowerMeans
MoisterMeatswithasignificantamountof
toughconnectivetissuemustbecookedtoa
minimumof160–180ºF/70–80ºCtodissolve
theircollagenintogelatin,butthat
temperaturerangeiswellabovethe140–
150ºF/60–65ºCatwhichthemusclefiberslose
theirjuices.Soit’sachallengetomaketough
meatssucculent.Thekeyistocookslowly,at
orjustabovethecollagen-dissolving
minimum,tominimizethedrying-outofthe
fibers.Themeatshouldbecheckedregularly
andtakenofftheheatassoonasitsfibersare
easilypushedapart(“forktender”).The
connectivetissueitselfcanhelp,becauseonce
dissolved,itsgelatinholdsontosomeofthe
juicesqueezedfromthemusclefibersand
thusimpartsakindofsucculencetothemeat.
Theshanks,shoulders,andcheeksofyoung
animalsarerichincollagenandsomake
fairlyforgiving,gelatin-thickenedbraises.
Oneusefulingredientinlong-cooked
braisesandstewscanbeaprolongedtime—
anhourortwo—duringwhichthecook
carefullymanagesthemeat’stemperaturerise
uptothesimmer.Thetimethatthemeat
spendsbelow120ºF/50ºCamountstoaperiod
ofacceleratedagingthatweakensthe
connectivetissueandreducesthetimeneeded
atfiber-dryingtemperatures.Onesignthat
