On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 369
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substances called “wax esters,” which are
an oil-like combination of a long-chain
fatty acid and a long-chain alcohol.
Humans lack the digestive enzymes
necessary to break these molecules into
their smaller, absorbable parts. The wax
esters therefore pass intact and oily from
the small intestine into the colon, where a
sufficient quantity will cause diarrhea.
Restaurants are the best place to
experiencetheselusciousfish—theflesh
is as much as 20% calorie-free “oil” —
becausetheyusuallylimittheservingsize
toatolerableamount.
Thepalenessoffishfleshresultsfrom
water’sbuoyancyanditsresistanceto
movement.Continuouscruisingrequireslongtermstaminaandisthereforeperformedby
slow-twitchredfibers,wellsuppliedwiththe
oxygen-storingpigmentmyoglobinandfatfor
fuel(p.132).Sincecruisinginbuoyantwater
isrelativelyeffortless,fishdevotebetweena
tenthandathirdoftheirmuscletothattask,
usuallyathindarklayerjustundertheskin.
Butwater’sresistancetomovementincreases
exponentiallywiththefish’sspeed.This
meansthatfishmustdevelopveryhighpower
veryquicklywhenaccelerating.Andsothey
devotemostoftheirmusclemasstoan
emergencypowerpackoffast-twitchwhite
cellsthatareusedonlyforoccasionalbursts
ofrapidmovement.
Inadditiontoredandwhitemusclefibers,
fishinthetunafamilyandsomeothershave
intermediate“pink”fibers,whicharewhite
fibersmodifiedformorecontinuouswork
withoxygen-storingpigments.
TheFlavorofFish
andShellfish
Theflavorsofoceanandfreshwatercreatures
areverydifferent.Becauseoceanfishbreathe
andswallowsaltywater,theyhadtodevelopa
