On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1113
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severalItaliancourts.Thesaucesthathave
cometobeknownasdistinctivelyItalianare
mainlydomesticandrelativelyunrefinedin
character,basednotsomuchonessencesas
onwholematerials:thepureesoftomato
fruitsandbasilleaves,forexample.Thebasic
Italianmeatsauce,orsugo,ismadeinthe
mannerofMarin’s18th-centuryconsommé:
meatisslowlycookedtoliberateitsjuices,
whichareallowedtocookdownandbrownon
thepanbottom;thenmeatbrothisusedto
redissolvethebrownedresidues,andallowed
toconcentrateanditselfbrown:andthe
processrepeatedtoproduceaconcentrated
flavor.Themeatisnotdiscarded,but
becomespartofthesauce.NotonlyItalybut
muchoftheMediterraneanregion,including
southernFrance,hasbeenlessinterestedin
extractingmeatessencesthaninhighlighting
andcombiningflavors.
TheClassicFrenchSauceFamilies
Carême’s original classification of the
sauces
has
undergone
various
modifications, as have the ingredients in
many of the derived sauces. Here is one
modern version of the family tree that
shows a number of the more familiar
derivedsauces.Stocksandrouxarebrown
if the meat, vegetables, or flour are
browned at relatively high heat before
liquid is added; otherwise they are yellow
orwhite,andlighterinflavoraswell.
BasicSauce:Brown,orEspagnole,made
withbrownstock(beef,veal),brownroux,
tomatoes
Bordelaise(“from
Redwine,
Bordeaux”)
shallots
Diable
Whitewine,shallots,
(“devil”)
cayenne
Lyonnaise(“fromLyon”) Whitewine,onion
Madeira Madeirawine
