On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 563
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acoolmouthfulandasasurprise.
TheTextureofFrozenPureesandJuices Ice
texture can vary from rocky to coarse to
creamy, depending on the proportions of
ingredients, how the ice is made, and the
temperature at which it’s served. During the
freezing process, water in the mix solidifies
into millions of tiny ice crystals, which are
surrounded by all the other substances in the
mix:mainlyleftoverliquidwaterthatformsa
syrup with dissolved sugars, both from the
fruit and added by the cook, as well as
contentsoftheplantcellsandcellwalls.The
more syrup and plant debris there are, the
more the solid crystals are lubricated, the
more easily they slide past each other when
wepresswithspoonortongue,andthesofter
the ice’s texture. Most ices are made with
about double the sugar of ice cream (whose
substantial fat and protein content helps
softenthetexture,p.40),between25and35%
by weight. Sweet fruits require less added
sugartoreachthisproportion,andpureesrich
in pectins and other plant debris (pineapple,
raspberry) require less total sugar for
softening. Many cooks replace a quarter to a
third of the added table sugar (sucrose) with
corn syrup or glucose, which helps soften
without adding as much perceptible
sweetness.Thesizeoftheicecrystals,andso
the ice’s coarseness or creaminess, is
determined by the content of sugar and plant
solids,andbyagitationduringfreezing.Sugar
and solids encourage the formation of many
small crystals rather than a few large ones,
and so do stirring and churning (p. 44). Ices
served right from the freezer are relatively
hard and crystalline; allowing them to warm
and thus partly melt produces a softer,
smootherconsistency.
VegetableStocksAvegetablestockisawater
extract of several vegetables and herbs that
