On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 562
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makeafoamormoussethatlastslongenough
tobesavored;foamsfromjuiceareespecially
ethereal.Similarly,whenoiliswhiskedintoa
puree or juice, the plant carbohydrates
insulate the oil droplets from each other, and
theoilandwaterphasesseparatemoreslowly.
The cook can therefore incorporate oil into a
pureeorjuicetoformatemporaryemulsion,
with richer dimensions of flavor and texture
than the puree alone. The thicker the puree,
the more stable and less delicate the foam or
emulsion. The consistency of a thick
preparationcanbelightenedbyaddingliquid
(water,juice,stock).
Frozen Purees and Juices: Ices, Sorbets,
Sherbets When purees and juices are frozen,
they form a refreshing semisolid mass that’s
known by a variety of names, including ice,
sorbet, granita, and sherbet. This kind of
preparation was first refined in 17th-century
Italy, which gave us the termsorbet (via
sorbetto from theArabicsharab,or“syrup”).
Its flavor is essentially that of the fruit
(sometimes an herb, spice, flower, coffee, or
tea),usuallyheightenedwithaddedsugarand
acid (to 25–35% and 0.5% respectively), and
withanoverallsugar-acidratiosimilartothat
ofthemelons(30–60:1;seep.382).Thepuree
or juice is often diluted with some water as
well, sometimes to reduce the acidity (lemon
and lime juices), sometimes to stretch an
ingredient in short supply, and sometimes to
improve the flavor, which is interestingly
affectedbytheverycoldservingtemperature:
for example, undiluted melon can taste too
muchlikeitscloserelativethecucumber,and
thinnedpearpureetasteslesslikefrozenfruit,
more delicate and perfumed. In the United
States, “sherbet” is the term applied to fruit
ices with milk solids included (3–5%) to fill
outtheflavorandhelpsoftenthetexture.
Thoughtraditionalicesaremadewith
fruits,vegetableicescanberefreshingtoo,as
