On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1111
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assessedbytherenownedchefAntonin
Carờme(17841833).InthePreliminary
DiscoursetohisMaợtredHụtelfranỗais,he
notedthatthesplendoroftheoldcuisine
wasmadepossiblebythelavishexpenditures
ofthemasteronpersonnelandmaterials.
AftertheRevolution,cooksluckyenoughto
retainaposition
werethusobliged,forwantofhelp,to
simplifytheworkinordertobeableto
servedinner,andthentodoagreatdeal
withverylittle.Necessitybrought
emulation;talentmadeupforeverything,
andexperience,thatmotherofall
perfection,broughtimportant
improvementstomoderncuisine,making
itatthesametimebothhealthierand
simpler.
Restaurants too brought improvements; in
order to flatter the public taste, the
commercialchefshadtocomeupwithnovel,
ever more “elegant” and “exquisite”
preparations. So social revolution became a
newmotivatingforceforculinaryprogress.
Sauce Families Carême made a number of
contributionstothisprogress,andperhapsthe
mostnotableinvolvedthesauces.Hisidea,set
forthinTheArtofFrenchCookinginthe19th
Century, was to organize the infinity of
possibilities that Marin foresaw, and thereby
help cooks realize them. He classified the
sauces of the time into fourfamilies, each
headed by a basic or leading sauce, and each
expandablebyplayingvariationsonthatbasic
theme. Only one of the leading sauces,
espagnole, was based on expensive, highly
concentrated meat extract; both velouté and
allemande used unreduced stock, and
béchamel used milk. Many of these sauces
were thickened with flour, which is much
moreeconomicalthanreducedmeatbouillon.
This approach suited the limits and needs of
