On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 560
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others,weseparatethefood’sflavororcolor
fromitsflavorless,colorlesscell-wallfibers
orabundantwater,andproduceaconcentrated
extractofthatfood’sessence.
PureesThesimplestdeconstructedversionof
fruits and vegetables is the puree, which
includes such preparations as tomato and
apple sauces, mashed potatoes, carrot soup,
andguacamole.Wemakepureesbyapplying
enough physical force to crush the tissue,
break apart and break open its cells, and mix
cellinnardswithfragmentsofthecells’walls.
Thankstothehighwatercontentofthecells,
mostpureesarefluidversionsoftheoriginal
tissue.Andthankstothethickeningpowersof
the cell-wall carbohydrates, which bind up
water molecules and get entangled with each
other, they also have a considerable, velvety
body—orcandevelopsuchabodywhenwe
boil off excess water and concentrate the
carbohydrates. (Potatoes and other starchy
vegetables are a major exception: starch
granules in the cells absorb all the free
moistureinthetissue,andarebestleftintact
in unbroken cells so the solid puree doesn’t
become gluey. See the discussion of mashed
potatoes on p. 303.) Purees are made into
sauces and soups, frozen into ices, and dried
into “leathers.” For purees as sauces, see p.
620.
Manyripefruitshavesufficiently
weakenedcellwallsthattheyareeasily
pureedraw,whilemostvegetablesarefirst
cookedtosoftenthecellwalls.Precooking
hastheadditionaladvantageofinactivating
cellenzymeswhich,whencellular
organizationisdisrupted,wouldotherwise
destroyvitaminsandpigments,alterflavor,
andcauseunsightlybrowning(p.269).The
sizeofsolidparticlesinthepuree,andsoits
texturalfineness,isdeterminedbyhow
thoroughlyripeningorcookinghave
dismantledthecellwalls,andbythemethod
