On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1109
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erainwhichexperimentalsciencebeganto
flourish,andsomeinfluentialFrenchcooks
conceivedofthemselvesasthechemistsor
alchemistsofmeat.Around1750,Franỗois
MarinechoedtheChinesedescriptionof
flavorharmonyfrom2,000yearsbefore,but
withsometellingtwists(seeboxbelow).
BothMarinandIYinspeakofharmony
andbalance.ButtheChinesecauldronbrings
togethersweet,sour,bitter,salty,andpungent
ingredients,whiletheFrenchpotcontains
onlymeatjuices,andgeneratescomplexity
andharmonybyconcentratingthem.Marin
saidthatGoodtastehasforbiddenthe
burningjuicesandcausticragoutsofthe
anciennecuisine,withtheirAsianspicesand
abundantvinegarandverjus.Meatbouillon
wasnowthesoulofcooking.Themeats
juicesareitsessence,andthecookextracts
them,concentratesthem,andthenusesthem
toimbueotherfoodswiththeirflavorand
nourishment.Thepurposeofasauceisnotto
addnewflavorstoafood,buttodeepenits
flavorandintegrateitwiththeunderlying
flavoroftheotherdishes.
Manyofthesepreparationsrequired
prodigiousamountsofflesh,thesolidpartof
whichdidnotappearinthefinaldish.Asmall
amountofconsommé,forexample,wasmade
with2lb/1kgeachofbeefandveal,two
partridges,ahen,andsomeham.Thismeat
wasfirstcookedwithsomebouillon—itself
alreadyameatextract—untiltheliquid
bouillonandmeatjuicesevaporated,andthe
meatbegantosticktothepanandcaramelize.
Thenyetmorebouillonwasaddedalongwith
somevegetables,themixturecookedforfour
hours,andstrainedtoproducealiquid
“yellowlikegold,mild,smooth,andcordial.”
The Flowering of French Sauces Marin
calledhiscollectionofbouillons,potages,jus,
consommés, restaurants (“restoring” soups),
coulis,
andsauces “the foundation of
