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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 313

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warmerthanthebreast.Theybrinethebirdto
juiceupitsbreast.Perfectionistscutthebird
upandroastlegsandbreastsseparately.
HotMetal:Frying,
orSautéing

Simplefrying,orsautéing,cooksbythedirect
conductionofheatenergyfromhotmetalpan
tomeat,usuallyviaathinlayerofoilthat
preventsthemeatfromstickingandconducts
heatevenlyacrossminutegapsbetweenmeat
andpan.Metalsarethebestheatconductors
known,andfryingthereforecooksthemeat
surfacerapidly.Itsdistinctivecharacteristicis
theabilitytobrownandflavorthemeat
surfaceinamatterofseconds.Thissearing
actionrequiresacombinationofheatsource
andpanthatcanmaintainahightemperature
evenwhiletheleakingmeatjuicesarebeing
vaporized.Ifthepangetscoolenoughtolet
moistureaccumulate—forexamplebecause


itwasinsufficientlypreheated,oroverloaded
withcoldwetmeat—thenthemeatstewsin
itsownjuicesuntiltheyboiloff,andits
surfacedoesn’tbrownwell.(Thesamething
willhappenifthepaniscovered,sothatthe
watervaporistrappedandfallsbackintothe
pan.)Theappetizingsizzleoffryingmeatis
actuallythesoundofmoisturefromthemeat


beingvaporizedasithitsthehotmetalpan,
andcooksusethissoundtojudgethepan
temperature.Acontinuousstronghiss
indicatestheimmediateconversionof
moisturetosteambyahotpan,andefficient
surfacebrowning;weakandirregular
sputteringindicatesthatthemoistureis
collectingindistinctdroplets,andthepanis
barelyhotenoughtoboilitoff.
PredictingRoastingTimes
Anumberofdifferentguidelineshavebeen
proposed for predicting how much time it
shouldtaketoroastagivenpieceofmeat.



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