On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1108
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“white butter,” and the thincourt bouillon
(“short-cooked bouillon”) traditionally
usedforpoachingandservingfish.Notice
thesimplicityofflavoringcomparedtothe
medievaldishes.
AsparagusinFragrantSauce
Choosethelargest,scrapethebottomsand
wash, then cook in water, salt well, and
don’t let them cook too much. When
cooked, put them to drain, make a sauce
withgoodfreshbutter,alittlevinegar,salt,
and nutmeg, and an egg yolk to bind the
sauce;takecarethatitdoesntcurdle;and
servetheasparagusgarnishedasyoulike.
LaVarenne,LeCuisinierfranỗois,1651
TroutinCourtBouillon
Cook your trout with water, vinegar, a
packet [of chive, thyme, cloves, chervil,
parsley,sometimesapieceoflard,alltied
with a string], parsley, salt, bay, pepper,
lemon,andservethesameway.
PerchesinBeurreBlanc
Cook them with wine, verjus, water, salt,
cloves, bay; remove the scales and serve
withathickenedsaucethatyoumakewith
butter,vinegar,nutmeg,slicesoflemon;it
shouldbewellthickened.
—PierredeLune,LeCuisinier,1656
EarlyModernSauces:
Meatessences,Emulsions
It’sinthethreecenturiesbetween1400and
1700thatthesaucesofourowntimehave
theirroots.Recipescallforfewerspicesanda
lighterhandwiththem;vinegarandverjus
begintogivewaytolemonjuice;coarsebread
andalmondthickenersarereplacedbyflour
andbybutterandeggemulsions(seebox,p.
585).AndinFrance,meatbrothsbecomethe
centralelementoffinecooking.Thisisthe
