On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 558
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other ingredients. Often the cook wants to
avoid browning, or to minimize it; here the
low heat and oil function to soften the
vegetables, develop and concentrate their
flavors, and blend those flavors together.
Vegetables cooked in a version of the confit
(p. 177) are immersed in oil and slowly
cooked to soften them and infuse them with
theoil’sflavorandrichness.
GrillingGrillingandbroilingcookbymeans
oftheintenseinfraredradiationemittedfrom
burning coals, flames, and glowing electrical
elements.Thisradiationcandesiccate,brown,
andburninrapidsuccession,soit’simportant
toadjustthedistancebetweenheatsourceand
food to make sure that the food can heat
through before the surface chars. As in
baking, a coating of oil speeds the cooking
and improves flavor. Enclosing the food in a
wrapper—freshcorninitshusk,plantainsin
their skin, potatoes in aluminum foil — can
give some protection to the surface and
essentiallysteamthefoodinitsownmoisture,
while allowing in some of the smoky aroma
fromtheheatsourceandsmolderingwrapper.
And some foods actually benefit from
charring. Large sweet and hot chillis have a
thick,toughcuticleor“skin”thatistediousto
peel away. Because it’s relatively dry
compared to the underlying flesh, and made
up in part of flammable waxes, it can be
burned to a crisp before the flesh gets soft.
Onceburned,theskincanbescrapedorrinsed
offwithease.Similarly,thefleshofeggplants
is smokily perfumed and easily scraped from
the skin when the whole vegetable is grilled
until the flesh softens and the skin dries and
toughens.
MicrowaveCooking
Microwaveradiationselectivelyenergizesthe
watermoleculesinfruitsandvegetables,and
