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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1107

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little saffron and fine spices; mix
everythingtogether,strainitandputitinto
apotonthecoals,stirringconstantlyuntil
it coats the spoon; and so take it off the
fire, stirring constantly for the length of
twoOurFathers;thendishitout,putting
mildspicesontop….
—TheNeapolitanRecipeCollection,ca.
1475,transl.TerenceScully
Sauce Terminology Another important
developmentduringtheMiddleAgeswasthe
elaboration of a new vocabulary for sauces
and other flavorful fluids, and a more
systematic approach to them. The Roman
termius was replaced by derivatives of the
L a t i nsalsus, meaning “salted”:sauce in
France,salsainItalyandSpain.InFrench,jus
came to mean meat juices;bouillon was a
stock produced by simmering meat in water;
coulis was a thickened meat preparation that
gaveflavorandbodytosauces,topotages —


substantial soups — and other prepared
dishes. The Frenchsoupe was the equivalent
of the Englishsop,aflavorfulliquidimbuing
a piece or pieces of bread. A number of
manuscripts divide their recipes into
categories:thereareuncookedsauces,cooked
sauces, sauces in which to cook meat, and
others with which to serve meats, thin and


thick potages, and so on. And the English
wor dgravy appears, derived apparently but
mysteriously from the Frenchgrané. The
latter, whose name derives from the Latin
granatus, “made with grains, grainy,” was a
kindofstewmadewithmeatandmeatjuices,
and not a separate mixture of spices and
liquid.
FrenchSaucesfromthe17thCentury
In the recipe books of La Varenne and
PierredeLune,wecanfindahollandaiselike “fragrant sauce,” the cream-like
emulsion still calledbeurre blanc or



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