On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 557
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with the characteristic notes contributed by
the oil itself. A food may be fried partly or
fully immersed in oil, or just well lubricated
withit(sautéing);andtypicaloiltemperatures
range from 325–375ºF/160–190ºC. True
fryingisfasterthanovenfryingbecauseoilis
much denser than air, so energetic oil
molecules collide with the food much more
frequently. The key to successful frying is
getting the piece size and frying temperature
right, so that the pieces cook through in the
time that the surfaces require to be properly
browned. Starchy vegetables are the most
commonly fried plant foods, and I describe
theimportantexampleofpotatoesindetailin
chapter 6 (p. 303). Many more delicate
vegetables and even fruits are fried with a
protectivesurfacecoatingofbatter(p.553)or
breading, which browns and crisps while the
food inside is insulated from direct contact
withthehighheat.
Stir-Frying and Sweating Two important
variations on frying exploit opposite ends of
the temperature scale. One is hightemperaturestir-frying.Thevegetablesarecut
into pieces sufficiently small that they heat
throughinaboutaminute,andthey’recooked
on a smoking-hot metal surface with just
enough oil to lubricate them, and with
constant stirring to ensure even heating and
prevent burning. In stir-frying it’s important
topreheatthepanaloneandaddtheoiljusta
few seconds before the vegetables; otherwise
thehighheatwilldamagetheoilandmakeit
unpalatable, viscous, and sticky. The rapidity
of stir-frying makes it a good method for
retainingpigmentsandnutrients.Attheother
extreme is a technique sometimes called
“sweating”
(Italiansoffrito or Catalan
soffregit, both meaning “underfrying”): the
very slow cooking over low heat of finely
chopped vegetables coated with oil, to
develop a flavor base for a dish featuring
