On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 707
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Europehaditsownnativestrawberry(F.
vescaandF.moschata),whichisnowcalled
the“wild”strawberryorfraisede
bois(“woodlandstrawberry”),eventhoughit’s
cultivated.Thisstrawberrywasmentionedin
Romanliterature,subsequentlycultivated,and
bythe15thcenturyhadawonderfulfragrance
butwasstillsmall,pithyandunproductive.
EarlyEuropeanvisitorstoNorthAmerica
wereimpressedbythesizeandvigorofan
Americanspecies,F.virginiana,andbrought
itbacktoEurope.ThenaFrenchmanbythe
stunninglyappropriatenameofFrézierfound
thewalnutsizedfruitsofanotherNewWorld
species,F.chiloensis,growinginChile,and
tookthatspeciestoFrancein1712.Around
1750,inthestrawberry-producingareaaround
PlougastelinBritanny,anaccidentalhybrid
betweenthetwoAmericanspeciesarose.
ThenacrosstheChannelinEngland,anatural
mutantoftheChileanspeciesarose,largeand
pink,withashapeandaromareminiscentof
pineapple.Modernstrawberryvarieties,large
andredandflavorful,derivefromthesetwo
all-Americanancestors.Theyhavebeengiven
thescientificnameF.xananassatoindicate
theirhybridorigins(x)anddistinctive
pineapplearoma(ananassa).
Elderberry and Barberry Elderberries and
barberries are minor fruits worth
rediscovering. Elderberries are pleasantly
aromatic fruits borne by trees of the genus
Sambucus, which are found across the
northern hemisphere. They’re usually cooked
ormadeintowinebecausetheyaretootartto
be enjoyed raw, and contain antinutritional
lectins (p. 259) that require heating to be
inactivated. Elderberries are rich in
anthocyanin pigments and antioxidant
phenoliccompounds.Soisthebarberry,from
shrubby species of the northern-hemisphere
Berberis,whichissomethinglikeaminiature
cranberryanddrieswell.Barberriesaremuch
