On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1105
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liftitfromitssauceandputintoanewpan
somemilk,alittlesaltandhoney,andvery
little water. Set it by a slow fire to warm,
crumblesomepastry,andadditgradually,
stirring carefully so that it doesn’t burn.
Addthechicken,wholeorcutup,turnout
on a dish, and pour over the following
sauce: pepper, lovage, oregano, honey, a
littlegrapesyrup,andcookingliquid.Mix.
Bringittotheboilinapan.Whenitboils,
thickenwithstarch,andserve.
—Apicius
New Flavors, New Clarity, and Jellies But
there were some important differences, and
genuineprogress.Fishsaucehaddisappeared,
its place taken by vinegar and unripe grape
juice, orverjus. Thanks in part to the
Crusades, which brought Europeans to the
MiddleEastandintocontactwithArabtrade
and traditions, many local Mediterranean
flavorings had been displaced by exotic
imports from Asia, especially cinnamon,
ginger,andgrainsofparadise;andthenutof
choice for thickening was now the almond.
The mortar was joined by a second
indispensable utensil: the cloth sieve or
strainer (Frenchétamine ortamis) through
which sauces were passed to remove coarse
particlesofspiceandthickenerandproducea
finer consistency. Cooks had discovered the
principle of thickening meat broths by
concentration — by boiling off unwanted
water—andsodevelopedboththeconsommé
and the solid jelly, part of whose value was
thewayitcouldcoatcookedmeatorfishand
protect it from the air and spoilage. The
transparencyofclearjelliesinturnledbythe
15th century to an improved strainer for
removing the tiniest particles from them: a
protein “fabric” of whipped egg whites that
clarifiedtheliquidfromwithin.
RefinementsinMedievalSauceMaking
