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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1104

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used,andcreamandbutterstillweren’t.
SauceRecipesfromAncientRome
…the bulb [of garlic] with the leaves he
keptanddippedinwater,thendroppedinto
theroundhollowstone.Onithesprinkled
some grains of salt, and as the salt
dissolved added hard cheese, then heaped
ontheherbshehadgathered[parsley,rue,
coriander], and with his left hand wedged
the mortar into his shaggy groin; his right
hand first mashed the pungent garlic with
the pestle, then pounded everything so as
tomixthejuicesevenly.Roundandround
went his hand; gradually the original
ingredients lost their own properties and
one color emerged from several, not
wholly green, since the milky fragments
held out, nor shining milky white, being
variegatedbyalltheherbs….hepouredin
somedropsofoliveoilandontopaddeda
tiny drop of pungent vinegar, and once


again mixed and thoroughly remixed the
mass. Finally with two fingers he wiped
round the whole mortar and brought
togetherthepartsintoasingleballsoasto
produce amoretum, perfect in appearance
asinname.
—Moretum,transl.E.J.Kenney
WhiteSauceforBoiledFoods


Pepper,liquamen [fish sauce], wine, rue,
onion,pinenuts,spicedwine,afewpieces
ofbreadcutuptothicken,oil.
ForStuffedSquid
Pepper,lovage,coriander,celery-seed,egg
yolk, honey, vinegar, liquamen, wine, and
oil.Youwillthickenit[byheating].
Pastry-MilkChicken
Cook the chicken inliquamen, oil, and
wine, to which you add a bundle of
corianderandonion.Thenwhenitisdone,



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