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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 554

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abouttheconcentrationofseawater(3%,or2
tablespoons/30 gm per quart/liter) will speed
softening(p.282)andalsominimizetheloss
of cell contents to the water (cooking water
withoutitsowndissolvedsaltwilldrawsalts
and sugars from the plant cells). When just
tender enough, the vegetables should be
removed and either served immediately or
scooped briefly into ice water to stop the
cooking and prevent further dulling of the
color.
Starchyvegetables,especiallypotatoes
cookedwholeorinlargepieces,benefitfrom
adifferenttreatment.Theirvulnerabilityisa
tendencyfortheouterportionstosoften
excessivelyandfallapartwhiletheinteriors
cookthrough.Hardandslightlyacidwater
canhelpthemmaintaintheirsurfacefirmness,
aswillstartingthemincoldwaterandraising
thetemperatureonlygraduallytoreinforce
theircellwalls(p.283).Saltisbestomitted
fromthewater,sinceitencouragesearly


softeningofthevulnerableexterior.Norisit
necessarilybesttocookthemattheboiling
point:180–190ºF/80–85ºCissufficientto
softenstarchandcellwallsandwon’t
overcooktheexteriorasbadly,thoughthe
cookingthroughwilltakelonger.
Whenvegetablesareincludedinameat


braiseorstewandareexpectedtohavea
tenderintegrity,theircookingneedsasmuch
attentionasthemeat’s.Averylowcooking
temperaturethatkeepsthemeattendermay
leavethevegetableshard,whilerepeated
boutsofsimmeringtodissolveatoughcut’s
connectivetissuemayturnthemtomush.The
vegetablescanbeprecookedseparately,either
tosoftenthemforalow-temperaturebraiseor
firmthemforlongsimmering;ortheycanbe
removedfromalong-simmereddishwhen
theyreachthedesiredtextureandaddedback
whenthemeatisdone.
Steaming Steaming is a good method for



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