On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1103
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description of the process that centers on
themakingofasteworsoup,apreparation
in which the solid food both provides part
ofthesauceandcooksinthesauce.
In the business of harmonious blending,
one must make use of the sweet, sour,
bitter, pungent and salty. Whether things
aretobeaddedearlierorlaterandinwhat
amounts — their balancing is very subtle
and each thing has its own characteristic.
The transformation which occurs in the
cauldron is quintessential and wondrous,
subtle and delicate. The mouth cannot
express it in words; the mind cannot fix
upon an analogy. It is like the subtlety of
archery
and
horsemanship,
the
transformation of Yin and Yang, or the
revolution of the four seasons. Thus [the
food] is long-lasting yet does not spoil;
thoroughly cooked yet not mushy; sweet
yet not cloying; sour yet not corrosive;
salty yet not deadening; pungent yet not
acrid;mildyetnotinsipid;oily-smoothyet
notgreasy.
—attributedtothechefIYinintheLü
ShihChhunChhiu(MasterLü’sSpringand
AutumnAnnals),239BCE,transl.Donald
HarperandH.T.Huang
TheMiddleAges:Refinement
andConcentration
Wedon’tknowmuchaboutcookinginEurope
betweenthetimeofApiciusandthe14th
century,theperiodfromwhichanumberof
manuscriptrecipecollectionssurvive.In
somerespects,saucemakinghadn’tchanged
much.Medievalsaucesoftencontainedmany
spices,themortarandpestlestillpounded
ingredients—nowincludingmeatsand
vegetables—andmostoftheRoman
thickenerswerestillused.Breadwasmost
common,toastedtoprovideadditionalcolor
andflavor,whilepurestarchwasnolonger
