On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 704
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acceleratedbyhightemperatures,soalighter
colorcanbeobtainedbydryingthegrapesin
theshade.Goldenraisinsaremadebytreating
thegrapeswithantioxidantsulfurdioxideand
drying them mechanically at controlled
temperatures and humidities; the result is a
muchfruitier,lighterflavor.Zante“currants”
aremadefromthesmallblackCorinthgrape,
and are tarter than ordinary raisins thanks to
theirhigherproportionofskintopulp.
Verjus and Saba Two ancient grape
preparationsmakeversatileingredientsinthe
kitchen. Fruits thinned six to eight weeks
before the main harvest are crushed and
filteredtoproduceverjus,atartalternativeto
vinegarorlemonjuice,slightlysweet,witha
delicate green aroma. And ripe grapes are
cooked down to a thick, sweet-tart, aromatic
syrup (Romansapa, Italiansaba ormosto
cotto,Turkishpekmez,Arabdibs).Likesyrups
from other fruit (pomegranates), grape syrup
was an important sweetener in the times
beforecheaptablesugar,butprovidestartness
and aroma as well as sweetness. It’s thought
thatbalsamicvinegarmayhaveevolvedfrom
grape syrup that was kept long enough to
ferment(p.775).
Kiwi “Kiwi” fruit is the name that New
Zealand producers came up with for the
striking, tart berry of a Chinese vine,
Actinidia deliciosa, when they pioneered its
international marketing in the 1970s. Several
other species ofActinidia are now also
cultivated, including the yellow-to-redfleshedA.chinensis.Kiwifruitareunusualin
appearanceandripeningbehavior.Theirthin,
hairy skin doesn’t change color during
ripening, and the translucent inner flesh is
greenwithchlorophyll,withasmanyas1,500
small black seeds embedded in a ring and
connected to the core by white rays of
vascular tissue. (There are also chlorophyll-
