On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1102
Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (168.53 KB, 2 trang )
itwasinEurope,morepreciselyinFrance,
thatgenerationsofcooksdevelopedsauce
makingintoasystematicart,andmadeitthe
heartofanationalcuisinethatbecamean
internationalstandard.
AncientTimes
Ourfirstrealknowledgeofsauce-like
preparationsinEuropecomesfromRoman
times.ALatinpoemfromaround25CE
describesapeasantfarmermakingaspreadof
poundedherbs,cheese,oil,andvinegar—an
ancestorofpestogenovese—thatgavea
pungent,salty,aromaticsavortohisflatbread
(seebox,p.583).
Afewcenturieslater,theLatinrecipebook
attributedtoApiciusmakesitclearthat
saucesplayedanessentialpartinthediningof
theRomanelite.Morethanaquarterofthe
nearly500recipesareforsauces,thetermfor
whichwasius,theancestorofour“juice.”
Mostcontainedatleastahalfdozenherbsand
spices,aswellasvinegarand/orhoney,and
someformofthefermentedfishsaucegarum
(p.235),whichprovidedsaltiness,savoriness,
andadistinctivearoma(muchasanchovies
dotoday).Andtheywerethickenedina
varietyofways:withthepoundedflavorings
themselves;withpoundednutsorrice;with
poundedliverorseaurchins;withpounded
bread,piecesofpastry,andwithpurewheat
starchitself;witheggyolks,bothrawand
cooked.Thesaucemaker’smostimportant
toolwasclearlythemortar,butthesea
urchins,eggs,andstarchareearlyversionsof
morerefinedthickeningmethods.
HarmonizingFlavorsinAncientChina
The addition, intensification, and blending
of flavors that characterize good sauce
making are central to the art of cooking,
andhavebeenconsideredsuchforatleast
2,000 years. Here is an ancient Chinese
