On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 951
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a high concentration of amino acids, mainly
glutamic acid), with a rich aroma. Several
hundred aroma molecules have been
identified in soy sauce, with roasty
compounds (furanones and pyrazines), sweet
maltol, and a number of meaty sulfur
compoundsamongthemoreprominent.Allin
all,soysauceisaconcentrated,mouth-filling
liquid, a versatile flavor enhancer for other
foods.
TamariTamarinamesakindofJapanesesoy
sauce closest to its Chinese original: made
with little or no wheat, and therefore poor in
alcohol and fruity esters derived from it, but
withadarkercolorandricherflavorthanksto
the higher concentration of soybean amino
acids. Today tamari is sometimes stabilized
with added alcohol, which makes its aroma
closertothatofordinaryshoyu.Evenstronger
than true tamari is twice-fermented
saishikomi,madebymakingupthemashnot
with salt water, but with a previous batch of
soysauce.
“Chemical” Soy Sauce Industrial producers
have
been
making
nonfermented
approximations of soy sauce since the 1920s,
when the Japanese first used chemically
modified soy protein (“hydrolyzed vegetable
protein”)asaningredient.Nowadays,defatted
soy meal, the residue of soybean oil
production,isbrokendown—hydrolyzed—
intoaminoacidsandsugarswithconcentrated
hydrochloricacid.Thiscausticmixtureisthen
neutralized with alkaline sodium carbonate,
and flavored and colored with corn syrup,
caramel, water, and salt. Such quick
“chemical” soy sauce has a very different
character from the slow fermented version,
and is usually blended with at least some
genuine fermented soy sauce to make it
palatable.
TheOriginalKetchup
