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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1197

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piece of butter, or 100. The proportions are
entirelyuptothecook’stasteandneeds.The
consistency of beurre blanc is like that of
thick cream, and can be made somewhat
thicker by adding water-free clarified butter
once the initial emulsion has been formed.
Thephospholipidsandproteinscarriedinthe
butter’swaterarecapableofemulsifyingtwo
to three times the butterfat in which they’re
embedded.
Beurreblancwillbegintoseparateand
leakbutterfatifitstemperaturerisesabove
about135ºF/58ºC.However,thephospholipid
emulsifierscantolerateheatandre-forma
protectivelayer.Anoverheatedsaucecan
usuallyberestoredwithasmallamountof
coolwaterandbriskwhisking.Theadditionof
aspoonfulofcreamsuppliesmore
emulsifyingmaterialsandcanmakeabeurre
blancmorestable.Mostdamagingtobeurre
blancislettingitcoolbelowbody
temperature.Thebutterfatsolidifiesand


formscrystalsaround85ºF/30ºC,andthe
crystalspokethroughthethinmembraneof
emulsifiersandfusewitheachother,forming
acontinuousnetworkoffatthatseparates
whenthesauceisreheated.Ideally,beurre
blancshouldbekeptataround125ºF/52ºC.
Becausewaterwillevaporateatthis


temperatureandmayoverconcentratethefat
phase,it’sagoodideatoaddalittlewater
periodicallyifthesaucehastobeheldforany
time.
Beurre Monté A preparation closely related
to beurre blanc isbeurre monté, “worked up”
or “prepared” butter, which is simply an
unflavored beurre blanc made with an initial
dose of water rather than vinegar or wine.
Beurremontéisusedamongotherthingsasa
poaching medium. Thanks to the relatively
lowheatconductivityandheatcapacityoffat
compared to water, it cooks delicate fish and
meatsmoregraduallythandoesabrothatthe



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