On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1150
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provideenoughgelatin—orfromadouble
fishstock.Thestocksareclarifiedwithegg
whitesandchoppedmeatorfish,thenfilled
andflavoredjustbeforetheyset.Aspics
shouldbefirmenoughtobecutasnecessary,
butquiveryandtenderinthemouth,not
rubbery.Whenmadetocoataterrineorwhole
portionofmeat,ortobindchoppedmeat
together,theymustbefirmer,around10–15%
gelatin,sothattheydon’trunoffthefoodor
crumble.Fishjelliesandaspicsareespecially
delicateduetothelowmeltingtemperatureof
fishgelatin;theyandtheirplatesshouldbe
keptdistinctlycoldtopreventpremature
melting.Ahomelyversionofthemeataspic
isboeufàlamode,apotroastbraisedinstock
andwinealongwithavealfoot,thensliced
andembeddedinthestrainedjellymadeby
thecookingliquid.Chauds-froidsaremeator
fishjelliesthatincludecream.
FoodWords:Gel,Gelatin,Jelly
Gel andjelly,wordsforafragilesolidthat
is largely water, and gelatin, the name of
the protein that can gel water into a solid,
all come from an Indo-European root
meaning “cold” or “to freeze.” The jelly
maker freezes liquids with molecules
insteadoficytemperatures.
OtherJelliesandGelées;
ManufacturedGelatins
Thefirstjelliesweremeatandfishdishes,but
cookssoonbegantouseanimalgelatinstoset
otheringredientsintopleasingsolids,
especiallycreamsandfruitjuices,and
preparedgelatinbecameastandardingredient
forthepastrycook,whoalsousesittogivea
meltingfirmnesstosomemousses,whipped
creams,andpastrycreams.Themostfamiliar
jelliesintheUnitedStatestoday,bothmade
frommanufacturedgelatinpowders,are
sweet,fruit-flavored,fluorescentlycolored
