On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 355
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ways.
Yetit’sagoodtimetobeeatingfromthe
waters.Morefishofexcellentqualityare
availablemorewidelythaneverbefore,and
theycomefromallovertheglobe,offering
theopportunitytodiscovernewingredients
andnewpleasures.Atthesametime,their
varietyandvariabilitymakeitchallengingto
chooseandpreparethemwell.Fishand
shellfisharemorefragileandlesspredictable
thanordinarymeats.Thischapterwilltakea
closelookattheirspecialnature,andhow
they’rebesthandledandprepared.
Brillat-SavarinonFish
Fish are an endless source of meditation
and astonishment. The varied forms of
thesestrangecreatures,theirdiversemeans
ofexistence,theinfluenceuponthisofthe
placesinwhichtheymustliveandbreathe
andmoveabout….
—PhysiologyofTaste,1825
Fisheries
andAquaculture
Ofallourfoods,fishandshellfisharethe
onlyonesthatwestillharvestinsignificant
quantitiesfromthewild.Thehistoryofthe
world’sfisheriesisthesagaofhuman
ingenuity,bravery,hunger,andwastefulness
evolvingintoamawthatnowswallowsmuch
oftheoceans’tremendousproductivity.In
1883,theeminentbiologistT.H.Huxley
expressedhisbeliefthat“thecodfishery,the
herringfishery,thepilchardfishery,the
mackerelfishery,andprobablyallthegreat
seafisheriesareinexhaustible;thatistosay
thatnothingwedoseriouslyaffectsthe
numbersoffish.”Justoveracenturylater,
codandherringstocksonbothsidesofthe
NorthAtlantichavecollapsed,manyother
fishareindecline,andtheU.N.Foodand
AgricultureOrganizationestimatesthatwe
areharvestingtwo-thirdsofthemajor
