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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 599

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causegassydiscomfort.Crosnescontainlittle
starch, and turn mushy when even slightly
overcooked.
Jicama Jicama is the swollen storage root of
Pachyrhizus erosus, a South American
memberofthebeanfamily.Itsmainvirtueis
its sturdy crispness: it keeps well, is slow to
discolor, and retains some crunch when
cooked.Jicamaisofteneatenraw,insaladsor
dippedintoasauce,andissometimesusedas
a fresh replacement for Chinese water
chestnuts, though it doesn’t have the same
sweetandnuttycharacter.
Lotus Root Lotus root is the muddwelling
rhizome ofNelumbo nucifera, a water lily
native to Asia that has North American and
Egyptian relatives. The lily is an important
image in Buddhism and other systems of
thought—astalkrisingfromthemiretobear
a beautiful flower over its floating leaves —
so lotus root can carry extraculinary


connotations.Therhizomecontainslargevoid
spaces, so cross-sectional slices have a
characteristic lacy pattern. It is crisp and
remainssoaftercooking,forthesamereason
that water chestnuts do. It has a mild aroma
and slight astringency, and discolors rapidly
when cut due to phenolic compounds. Lotus
root is cooked in many different ways, after


aninitialpeeling(andblanchinginthecaseof
salads),fromrapidstir-fryingtobraisingand
candying. Its modest store of starch is also
extracted.
Oca Oca is the small tuber of a South
American relative of wood sorrel,Oxalis
tuberosa.Itisvariablystarchyorjuicy,comes
inanumberofanthocyanin-basedskincolors,
fromyellowtoredtopurple,andisunusualin
beingdistinctlytart,thankstotheoxalicacid
typicalofthefamily.InPeruandBoliviait’s
usuallycookedinstewsandsoups.
LowerStemsandBulbs:



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