On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 303
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meatsareriskier,becausethecontaminated
meatsurfaceisbrokenintosmallfragments
andspreadthroughoutthemass.Theinterior
ofarawhamburgerusuallydoescontain
bacteria,andissafestifcookedwelldone.
Rawmeatdishes—steaktartareand
carpaccio—shouldbepreparedonlyatthe
lastminutefromcutscarefullytrimmedof
theirsurfaces.
Making a Safer Rare Hamburger One way
to enjoy a less risky rare hamburger is to
grind the meat yourself after a quick
treatmentthatwillkillsurfacebacteria.Bring
alargepotofwatertoarollingboil,immerse
the pieces of meat in the water for 30–60
seconds, then remove, drain and pat dry, and
grind in a scrupulously clean meat grinder.
The blanching kills surface bacteria while
overcooking only the outer 1–2 millimeters,
which grinding then disperses invisibly
throughouttherestofthemeat.
Now that we understand the basic nature of
heatandhowitmovesintoandthroughmeat,
let’s survey the common methods of cooking
meatandhowtomakethebestofthem.
CookingFreshMeat:
TheMethods
Manytraditionalmeatrecipesweredeveloped
atatimewhenmeatscamefrommature,fatty
animals,andsowerefairlytolerantof
overcooking.Fatcoatsandlubricatesmeat
fibersduringcooking,andstimulatestheflow
ofsalivaandcreatesthesensationofjuiciness
nomatterhowdrythemeatfibersthemselves
havebecome.Recipesforhours-longbraising
orstewingweredevelopedformatureanimals
withsubstantiallycross-linkedcollagenthat
tookalongtimetodissolveintogelatin.
However,today’sindustriallyproducedmeats
comefromrelativelyyounganimalswith
moresolublecollagenandwithfarlessfat;
