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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 354

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aswell.Theworld’scoastlinesaredottedwith
massivepilesofoysterandmusselshellsthat
commemoratefeastsgoingback300,000
years.By40,000yearsagothehuntersof
prehistoricEuropewerecarvingsalmon
imagesandmakingthefirsthookstocatch
riverfish;andnotlongafterward,they
venturedontotheoceaninboats.Fromthe
lateMiddleAgeson,theseagoingnationsof
EuropeandScandinaviaexploitedthe
Atlantic’sabundantstocksofcodandherring,
dryingandsaltingthemintocommoditiesthat
werethefoundationoftheirmodern
prosperity.
Fivehundredyearslater,atthebeginning
ofthe21stcentury,theoceans’productivityis
givingout.Ithasbeenexhaustedbyfeedinga
tenfoldincreaseinthehumanpopulation,and
byconstantadvancesinfishingtechnology
andefficiency.Withthehelpoffasterand
largerships,sonartoseeintothedepths,
miles-longnetsandlines,andthe


mechanizationofallaspectsoftheharvest,
we’vemanagedtofishmanyimportantfood
speciestothevergeofcommercialextinction.
Formerlycommonfish—codandherring,
Atlanticsalmonandswordfishandsole,
sturgeonandshark—areincreasinglyrare.
Others—orangeroughy,Chileanseabass,


monkfish—comeandgofromthemarket,
temporarilyabundantuntiltheytooare
overfished.
Thedeclineinthepopulationsofwildfish
hasencouragedthewidespreadrevivaland
modernizationofaquaculture.Fishfarmsare
nowournearlyexclusivesourcefor
freshwaterfish,forAtlanticsalmon,andfor
mussels.Manyoftheseoperationseffectively
sparewildpopulations,butothersfurther
depletethemandcauseenvironmental
damageoftheirown.Ittakessomeeffort
thesedaystofindandchoosefishand
shellfishthathavebeenproducedin
environmentallyresponsible,sustainable



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