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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 749

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playinthelivesoftheplantsthemselves?
Onesimpleclueistheirverypotency.Try
theexperimentofchewingonanoreganoleaf,
oraclove,oravanillabean.Theresultisfar
frompleasurable!Wheneatenasis,most
spicesandherbsareacrid,irritating,numbing.
Andthechemicalsresponsibleforthese
sensationsareactuallytoxic.Thepurified
essenceoforeganoandofthymecanbe
boughtfromchemicalsupplycompanies,and
comewithbrightwarninglabels:these
chemicalsdamageskinandlungs,sodon’t
touchorinhale.Thisispreciselytheprimary
functionofthesechemicals:tomakethe
plantsthatproducethemobnoxiousand
thereforeresistanttoattackbyanimalsor
microbes.Theflavorsofherbsandspicesare
defensivechemicalweaponsthatarereleased
fromplantcellswhentheplantischewedon.
Theirvolatilitygivesthemtheadvantageof
counterattackingthroughtheair,notjuston
directcontact,andofbeingawarningsignal


thatcantrainsomeanimalstobedeterredby
smellalone.
TurningWeaponsInto
Pleasures:JustAddFood

Andyethumanshavecometoprizethese
weaponsthataremeanttorepelus.What


makesherbsandspicesnotonlynontoxicand
ediblebutdeliciousisasimpleprincipleof
cooking:dilution.Ifwebiteintoanintactleaf
oforeganoorapeppercorn,theconcentrated
doseofdefensivechemicalsoverwhelmsand
irritatesoursenses;butthosesamechemicals
diffusedthroughoutadishofotherfoods—a
fewmilligramsinapoundortwo—stimulate
withoutoverwhelming.Theyaddfavorsthat
ourgrainsandmeatsdon’thave,andmake
thosefoodsmorecomplexandappealing.
TheChemistryandQualities
OfHerbsandSpices



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