On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 348
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anddryingmeatscrapstopreservethem.
Whensaltedscrapsaresqueezedtogether,
microbe-ladensurfacesendupinsidethe
moistmass,andsalt-tolerantbacteriathatcan
growwithoutoxygenthrivethere.Forthe
mostpart,thesebacteriaturnouttobethe
sameonesthatcangrowinsalty,air-poor
cheese:namelytheLactobacilliand
Leuconostocs(andsuchrelativesasthe
Micrococci,Pediococci,andCarnobacteria).
Theyproducelacticandaceticacids,which
lowerthemeatpHfrom6to4.5–5andmake
itevenlesshospitabletospoilagemicrobes.
Then,asthesausageslowlydriesoutwith
time,thesaltandaciditybecomemore
concentrated,andthesausageincreasingly
resistanttospoilage.
Southern and Northern Styles of Sausage
Fermented sausages come in two general
styles. One is the dry, salty, well-spiced
sausage typical of the warm, dry
Mediterranean.ItaliansalamiandSpanishand
Portuguese chorizos are 25–35% water,
containmorethan4%salt,andcanbestored
at room temperature. The other style is the
moister, less salty, usually smoked and/or
cooked sausage typical of northern Europe,
whose cool, humid climate made drying
difficult. These “summer” sausages and
German cervelats are 40–50% water, around
3.5%salt,andmustberefrigerated.Bothcan
beeatenuncooked.
Making Fermented Sausages These days,
nitrates(Europe)ornitrites(U.S.)tosuppress
botulism bacteria are added to the mix of
meat,fat,bacterialculture,salt,andspices,as
is some sugar, at least part of which the
bacteria transform into lactic acid.
Fermentation lasts from 18 hours to three
days, depending on temperature (60–
100ºF/15–38ºC, with dry sausages at the low
end) and sausage size, until the acidity
