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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 594

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intoandtingethecream-coloredflesh.Taro
retainsitsshapewhensimmered,andit
becomeswaxyoncooling.Ithasapronounced
aromathatremindssomeofchestnuts,others
ofeggyolk.InHawaiitaroisboiled,mashed,
andfermentedintopoi,oneelementinthe
luau(p.295).
Taroissometimesconfusedwithmalanga,
yautia,andcocoyam,tubersofanumberof
NewWorldtropicalspeciesinthegenus
Xanthosoma,whicharealsoarumsprotected
byoxalatecrystals.Malangagrowsindrier
soilsthantaro,ismoreelongated,hasan
earthierflavor,andmorereadilyfallsapart
whensimmeredinsoupsandstews.
YamTrueyamsarestarchytubersoftropical
plantsthatarerelatedtothegrassesandlilies,
adozenorsocultivatedspeciesofDioscorea
from Africa, South America, and the Pacific
with varying sizes, textures, colors, and
flavors. They are seldom seen in mainstream


American markets, where “yam” means a
sugary orange sweet potato (p. 304). True
yamscangrowto100lb/50kgandmore,and
inthePacificislandshavebeenhonoredwith
their own little houses. They appear to have
been cultivated as early as 8000BCE inAsia.
Manyyamscontainoxalatecrystalsjustunder
theskin,aswellassoap-likesaponins,which


give a slippery, frothy quality to their juices.
Somevarietiescontainatoxicalkaloidcalled
dioscorine that must be removed by grating
and leaching in water.Yam tubers help their
plantssurvivedrought,andtheyhavealonger
pantrylifethancassavaortaro.
TheCarrotFamily:Carrots,Parsnips,andOthers

Rootvegetablesinthecarrotfamilysharethe
familyhabitofcontainingdistinctive
aromaticmolecules,sothey’reoftenusedto
lendcomplexitytostocks,stews,soups,and
otherpreparations.Carrotsandparsnips



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