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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 397

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meatquality,andprocessthecarcass
immediately,beforeitbeginstodeteriorate.
Thefishermanhasnosuchmasteryoverthe
circumstancesofthecatch,thoughthefish
farmerhassome.
Harvest from the Ocean There are several
common ways of harvesting fish from the
wild, none of them ideal. In the most
controlled and least efficient method, a few
fisherman catch a few fish, ice them
immediately,anddeliverthemtoshorewithin
hours. This method can produce very fresh
and high-quality fish —if they are caught
quicklywithminimalstruggle,expertlykilled
andcleaned,quicklyandthoroughlyiced,and
promptly delivered to market. But if the fish
areexhausted,processingislessthanideal,or
coldstorageisinterrupted,qualitywillsuffer.
Far more common are fish caught and
processed by the thousands and delivered to
port every few days or weeks. Their quality


oftensuffersfromphysicaldamagecausedby
the sheer mass of the catch, delays in
processing, and storage in less than ideal
conditions. Factory-scale trawlers and
longliners also harvest huge numbers of fish,
but they do their own processing on board,
and often clean, vacuum-pack, and freeze
their catch within hours. Such fish can be


superior in quality to unfrozen fish caught
locallyandrecentlybuthandledcarelessly.
Harvest in Aquaculture By contrast to the
logisticalchallengeposedbyfishing,consider
the care with which salmon are harvested in
thebestaquacultureoperations.First,thefish
arestarvedforseventotendaystoreducethe
levels of bacteria and digestive enzymes in
the gut that may otherwise accelerate
spoilage. The fish are anesthetized in chilled
water saturated with carbon dioxide, then
killed either with a blow to the head or by
bleedingwithacutthroughthebloodvessels



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